Voici les infos pour récupérer le nouveau Firmware pour votre caméra Panasonic Lumix GH2 .
Firmware Camera :
here I provide you the special firmware:
and thats are the key features:
-Higher Bit-rate for Video creates film like image detail & motion quality.
-Ability to allocate data towards Video Motion or still detail quality.
-Higher Bit-rate for Audio, Boost audio quality from 192,000bps to 440,000bps
-Pal & 25p framrate
-Unlocked ISO up to 12,800k enables you to shoot in extreme dark conditions or overcome a slow lens
Réglages Caméra :
To get the best image quality possible out of the Panasonic GH2 you are going to want shoot in a 1920×1080 resolution, 24 frames a second, the AVCHD codec and the Smooth color curve. This is of course assuming you want to get the most latitude and dynamic range or the flattest image possible. For the best latitude you will want to stick to the SMOOTH color profile with all of the options set to -2. The smooth profile uses a curve that handles highlights with a smooth roll off. With the saturation dialed back, muted colors will lend well in post when you are trying to create your look and color grade the footage. A Flat image with the least contrast possible is what you want to take into post production. Anything too saturated or with too much contrast will create problems since you will be STUCK with that look and it will severely limit the color grading options and creativity when you get to post.
-Set the dial on top of the camera to the setting that shows the letter M proceeded by the image of a traditional film camera “Creative Movie Mode”.
-Now go into the menu by pushing the Menu/Set button next to the LCD screen
-The first menu in Creative Movie Mode : has 3 film settings. Select the middle option “24p CINEMA”
Now go down to the second set of options or the “Motion Picture” screen.
- Set Film mode to Smooth with all the options set to -2 and hit Memory to save it.
- Set REC QUALITY to 24H
- Set EXPOSURE MODE to M, This will allow you to take control of your aperture and shutter during recording.
Optional but highly recommended: Go down to the third menu screen that looks like a C and a wrench. Set Histogram to on. The histogram is crucial! When you cant trust your eye or the LCD screen a histogram will accurately tell you if your clipping your highlights or if you are under exposed, it’s a great tool you shouldn’t pass up on.
Other Options
CONTINUOUS AF
With compatible lenses this will determine whether or not it will auto-focus continually during recording in an attempt to keep the subject in focus at all times. Not generally recommended for a film but can be useful at times in casual situations.
Note: If this is set to on you can still manually focus by half pressing on the rec button and turning the focus ring.
Off: You have to focus by turning the focus ring on your own
I.DYNAMIC
Generally i love this setting and tend to keep it on. It boosts the exposure in darker areas exclusively. When would you NOT want more dynamic range? The default setting is OFF
Metering Mode
Try them, i use the second one the most but metering mode really depends on your style of lighting and preference. They can each useful in the right lighting.
WINDCUT
When this is set to ON the camera will try to cut out wind-noise on the internal mics, nothing you cant do in post. I recommend leaving this set to off.
MIC LEVEL DISP
Set this to to ON unless you don’t want your mic levels on screen Even in that situation it’s good to have it ON so you at least know your cameras mic is not broken and that you’ll be able to sync your sound without a visual clap. Also, to impress your Canon friends whose cameras don’t do that.
MIC LEVEL ADJ
Determines microphone sensitivity. Generally 2 suits most situations just fine and if anything i go down to 1 in louder situations.
EX. TELE CONV
This is a nifty feature that doubles your focal length. It scans the center of the sensor recording 1080p in about 4x “zoom” compared to off. IT IS NOT A ZOOM feature, It doesn’t degrade the image. This can be very useful with lenses not designed to cover the sensor. For example an old c-mount lens from your old Bolex camera. You can adapt it to the GH2 and if you get sever vignetting... problem solved.
REC HIGHLIGHT
Remember Zebras? Its the same thing! If any part of your image is severely over exposed to the point that there is nothing but white, no detail there. It is going to blink and flicker in a solid black covering the over exposed area. I keep this off and instead rely on the histogram. You could do a combination of the two but its far from necessary since the histogram already gives you all the information you need.
This is a nifty feature that doubles your focal length. It scans the center of the sensor recording 1080p in about 4x “zoom” compared to off. IT IS NOT A ZOOM feature, It doesn’t degrade the image. This can be very useful with lenses not designed to cover the sensor. For example an old c-mount lens from your old Bolex camera. You can adapt it to the GH2 and if you get sever vignetting... problem solved.
REC HIGHLIGHT
Remember Zebras? Its the same thing! If any part of your image is severely over exposed to the point that there is nothing but white, no detail there. It is going to blink and flicker in a solid black covering the over exposed area. I keep this off and instead rely on the histogram. You could do a combination of the two but its far from necessary since the histogram already gives you all the information you need.
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